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NEW PUTTING TIPS FOR CALCULATING THE GRID

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NEW PUTTING TIPS FOR CALCULATING THE GRID  Empty NEW PUTTING TIPS FOR CALCULATING THE GRID

Post by Paul Thu 29 Oct 2015, 5:10 pm

Ok well if you prefer to do it by hand then this is how it works Multiply the distance of your putt by these factors and then divide by 24 This will give you a number which is the number of boxes you shift by before taking your putt, Obviously the actual distance will depend on how much a box appears on your screen mine is 4 cm 
Look at the putt from reverse view 
Speed of Dots       Uphill Putt   Down Hill Putt 
Very Slow              0.38             0.75
Slow                      0.75             1.0
Medium Slow          1.0               1.25
Medium                   1,25             1.5
Medium Fast           1,5               1.75
Fast                        1.75             2.0 
 
So if you had a 23 foot putt and the dots were moving Fast then for an uphill putt you would move the cursor 23 X 1.75/24 boxes = 1.68 boxes or in my case 6.72 cm 
You would move the cursor in the opposite way that the dots are moving 
It seems to be Ok on middle distance putts but for long and very short putts it seems to break down especially on hellish greens such as those at Olympic.
So a  guide for those who haven;t got a clue like me but not perfect by any means
So put a calculator and a ruler in your bag 
Hope this helps Arnie
May I always be with the sun 


Paul



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Post by Arnie Finlay Sun 01 Nov 2015, 8:29 am

Let me know if any one has any luck with this 
I must say I have had mixed results with this one
Sometimes really great but when the dots are moving really fast with putts less than about 3 feet it doesn't help at all

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Post by Paul Sun 01 Nov 2015, 3:05 pm

Arnie I am still trying it . This putting dilemma I have in WGT has to be one of my worst and most frustrating nightmares i've ever dealt with . I just don't get it . My next move is to completely change my style of putter. Relearn putting with one completely different from mine .


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Post by Arnie Finlay Sun 01 Nov 2015, 3:19 pm

I agree mate My current strategy is to use Trent putting calculator but with 1 level higher than it recommends so that if the green is level 10 I will set it to 11 and so forth but even then for uphill putts ypu have to add a couple of % points. 

And the above table is only a guide and seems to break down with short or long distance putts 

I suspect my basic aim getting down in two is fine but at your level presumably you have to get down in 1 on really difficult greens. 

I dread what will happen when I get to Master I'll be back to 80 or more on relatively easy courses such as St Andrews or Kaiawah 

Such are the joys of belonging to WGT

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Post by Paul Mon 02 Nov 2015, 1:46 am

I have been using distance calculation that is very precise . . Almost every putt stops at or about 1 or 2 feet past the hole . Or it lips it . I have no connection or feel for my aim . Where to move the flag " exactly " has evaded me . Not even the techniques from Tekoma or J C Sneed seem to work precisely for me . I am so tired of being close . I am sure at some point something will click in me that says " ok that's it , that's how you do it " .


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Post by Paul Tue 03 Nov 2015, 12:25 pm

  I like these formula's Arnie . But like you said . not for within 5 ' . Also I know that I am not determining the correct speed , as I am still only coming close on most shots . And the rest of the shots I miss the ding . Lol = every shot missed . Something that is also a struggle for me is that up until inside a year ago . I was a strictly a "forgiveness "putter I call it . I would intentionally miss the ding either wide right or wide left according to how much and how fast I thought the break was . This may come as a surprise to others . But it is a common method used by a number of players . After I became a Legend it was clear to me that I had to learn how and where to move the flag to obtain much more accuracy . Some golfers use a combination of both of those methods . Which is basically where I am at . But it's not quite working for me if I aspire to become a golfer that can make putts . My desire for that is becoming ever increasing . Tired of being close . And lately a tease to be getting even closer . 


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Post by Paul Tue 03 Nov 2015, 12:33 pm

Arnie Finlay wrote:

I dread what will happen when I get to Master I'll be back to 80 or more on relatively easy courses such as St Andrews or Kaiawah 


 I think you will find the 10 , 11 , 12 green speeds a more natural feel for the putt and just typically adapt to those levels without a problem . You have spent plenty of time learning your other techniques . You will enjoy and embrace tiering up .


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Post by Bertasion Sat 07 Nov 2015, 9:51 am

Maybe placement in the advanced math class in 8th grade did me no good; while I know the math formula works for some it never has for me.  What I did coming up through the tiers was to figure out the maximum distance I hit a putt at whatever my green speed was for the 15, 30 and 60 putting meters on flat greens.  For example the 12/13 greens and the 15 meter on flat ground will go 22 feet tops, 21 average.  Full on the 30 meter is 42 feet on flat ground and full on 60 is 72 feet on flat ground.  Over time I've learned how much to add or subtract from that depending on slope; then I use the meter that will get me the distance I need.  If I have a downhill 22 foot put I can use the 15 meter and back off to the distance I want the ball to go knowing it will roll out several feet due to the slope.  This means I shouldn't have a long putt for my next shot.  For an uphill 22 footer I use the 30 meter and go to near the 2nd bar above 50% (which for me is 23 feet in length) if the slope is mildly uphill.  This is my putt by "feel" method.  As for right to left or left to right. . .the more you play the greens the more you learn, but lining the putt up 1/4 right of the hole for a right to left or vice versa and clicking about a 1/4 inch from the dinger is pretty darn accurate for most breaking putts.  You'll figure out after a while how much more or less you need.  For the biggest breakers you can pretty much click at the bar to the nearest right or left of center and play for slightly more distance to compensate for the distance lost due to the break.  For close breaking putts aim at the inside edge, edge or outside edge of the hole and hit it firm.  After a while you'll learn whether you have to hit the putt off center slightly.  That was my self-taught putting method beginning at hack and i still use it today.

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Post by Paul Sat 07 Nov 2015, 10:12 am

Bertasion wrote: I hit a putt at whatever my green speed was for the 15, 30 and 60 putting meters on flat greens.  For example the 12/13 greens and the 15 meter on flat ground will go 22 feet tops, 21 average.  Full on the 30 meter is 42 feet on flat ground and full on 60 is 72 feet on flat ground.  Over time I've learned how much to add or subtract from that depending on slope; then I use the meter that will get me the distance I need.  If I have a downhill 22 foot put I can use the 15 meter and back off to the distance I want the ball to go knowing it will roll out several feet due to the slope.  This means I shouldn't have a long putt for my next shot.  For an uphill 22 footer I use the 30 meter and go to near the 2nd bar above 50% (which for me is 23 feet in length) if the slope is mildly uphill..
15' meter  21 - 22


30' meter 42 


60' meter 72


example 22' = 30' meter  2nd bar over 50%  23'


Last edited by pdb1 on Sat 07 Nov 2015, 10:18 am; edited 1 time in total


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Post by Paul Sat 07 Nov 2015, 10:14 am

This is a very interesting guide Brian . Explained very well 
  Thank you


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